Mamuśka, Elephant and Castle

Pork gulasz from mamuska, elephant and castle

Pork gulasz with mash (£6.75)

Given that our favourite vegetable is probably chips, Britons can always appreciate a plate of stodge. Dishes that go well with drizzle are particularly welcome, even if they don’t taste of all that much – the pleasure in eating them comes more from being full of warm food than from dazzled tastebuds – and Polish food is a great example of the edible version of an anorak.

Unfortunately I didn’t find Mamuśka’s dishes a great example of Polish food. The gulasz sauce which should have been rich with paprika, or garlic, or at least tomato, was less tasty than tinned soup, and the meat was dry and sparse. I couldn’t have told you which pierogi were meat and which were veg from their mushy fillings alone, though I have to give them top marks for stodge factor.

Pierogi from Mamuska Polish restaurant, London

Half portion of cabbage and mushroon pierogi with bacon (£3.75)

It was unfortunate that the things we ate at Mamuśka weren’t our first choices; it was a Friday night and they’d run out of quite a few dishes. To be honest though, given the low, low prices and the fact your options are narrow in Elephant and Castle I might even recommend visiting anyway, despite its dreary dinner. And there’s one thing they serve which I’d definitely go back for: pre-mixed Zubrowka vodka apple slushies. Those things could perk up any weather.

★★✰✰✰   £££
Unit 233, First Floor, Elephant & Castle Shopping Centre, SE1 6TE, 020 3602 1898


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