KaoSarn, Brixton

Thai green curry from KaoSarn, Brixton

Chicken Gang Keaw Warn (£7.90)

Thai food was a culinary pop hit in the nineties, but those who first tucked into it during its bland, claggy ‘Best Of’ phase can be forgiven for considering it only worthy of the takeaway box of desperation. Thanks to the inevitable British interpretations and ready meal incarnations the cuisine became as out-of-favour and characterless as the Spice Girls minus Geri. But there are now plenty of places serving the rich, fragrant flavours and colourful ingredients of Thailand. KaoSarn is one of the best of them.

Its spot at the edge of Brixton Village Market means that most of its tables are outside – dress appropriately because you won’t want to extend your already inevitable wait for an indoor spot. The affordable menu, fast food service and BYO policy will help distract from any discomfort, though – your table will soon be piled with delicious versions of dishes you thought you knew. Thai green curry, which from the supermarket tastes at best faintly of coconut, is a bouquet of lemongrass, lime leaves, ginger, coriander and plenty more I am too western to recognise. You’ll have to fight the rest of your party for the last spring roll. With dishes like this it’s no wonder Thai food got a reunion tour.

★★★★★   £££
Brixton Village Market, SW9 8PR, 020 7095 8922


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