York & Albany, Camden

Pork from York & Albany, Camden

Pork with smoked potatoes

So this is Gordon Ramsay’s doing, is it? Well he’s better at swearing than keeping an eye on the food at his restaurants because York & Albany’s set lunch was three courses of only-just-good-enough, and I didn’t even pay for it. (I don’t mean we ran out on the bill, obviously; we were bought a gift voucher.)

The flavours on each plate made a good team but weren’t as exciting as they sounded on the menu, and were dragged along by some questionable cooking times; everything was either undercooked or had been left in just long enough to make it too tough. The pudding was tasty, but if a man who holds 14 Michelin stars can’t teach his kitchen to serve a decent chocolate brownie then he ought to be ashamed of himself.

It is true that we expected better in part because it is a Ramsay outlet, but even without his name in the mix this was a meal that did not warrant its £30 price tag. You can get a two-course lunch for £10 just 100m down the hill at Market, where I would put money on every aspect of the cooking being just right.

York & Albany
★★✰✰✰   £££
127-129 Parkway, NW1 7PS, 020 7388 3344

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