I Camisa, Soho

Focaccia from I Camisa Italian deli, Old Compton Street, Soho, London

Taleggio, sundried tomato and rocket focaccia (£3.50)

Many of our best meals come in layers. Lasagne, moussaka, dauphinois potatoes, apple crumble, viennetta… but the most adaptable and hit-the-spot of all these wedges of culinary wonder must be the sandwich. But just as the sandwich can satisfy in ways a salad leaves you limp, it can also disappoint something terrible. So finding a source of a never-disappointing bread-based lunch in I Camisa was a delight, and the fact that I have yet to spend more than £3.60 in there makes me their newest regular.

A basket of ciabatta rolls and chunks of focaccia waits for you to choose from it on their counter, and while you wait in the little queue that has inevitably filled half of the shop you can try to think up obscure cheeses to go with the freshly sliced cured meat of your choice. Their deli cabinet holds so many marinated and roasted treats that there must be more combinations than there were lira to the pound, but there’s no menu so it’s a case of going with your hungry heart. And even if it turns out that mortadella doesn’t really go with stracchino and garlic mushrooms, the layers are each so good that this lunch will always be satisfying.

I Camisa
★★★★★   £££
61 Old Compton St, W1D 6HS, 020 7437 7610

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