Damson and Co, Soho

Salmon and eggs, Damson and co, Soho London

Asparagus, poached duck egg and hollandaise with smoked salmon (£8 I think)

Dinner in Soho is quite the minefield; if you’re not waiting an hour to get through the door you’re eating something cheap but tasteless because nobody had a better plan. Damson and Co isn’t really a restaurant, I don’t think. Certainly the drinks list was a lot longer than the menu, and the benches and teeny tables are not built for anyone whose inclination is to settle in with several sets of cutlery, napkin tucked into their collar. But it’s not really a bar either, which makes it just right for those evenings where you have two hours of catching up to do but don’t dare drink a bottle of wine on an empty stomach.

cheese board, Damson and Co

Cheese board (£13 I think)

A lack of legitimate main courses led us to eating a pretty bizarre selection of ingredients; if the smoked salmon, chutney and macaroni cheese had all come on one plate I’d have walked out. Going in separately though, they were all more than welcome, as were the soft, oozing poached duck egg, a platter of ripe and interesting cheeses with – miraculously – more than enough crackers and a chorizo ‘flatbread’ that was far from gourmet but so delicious. I found the meat board a little disappointing, and its dry pastrami was the only thing that got left behind. Drinks were very pricy, too, so actually it’s an extra-safe haunt for a school night: you’re much better off buying an extra cheddar-soaked flatbread than another small glass of house white. But the atmosphere and staff were very pleasant and, there was no queue, so…

Damson and Co
★★★★✰   £££
21 Brewer St, W1F 0RL, 020 3697 2499

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