Between its no-known-local-tube address and main courses tipping the £20 limit, The Dock Kitchen hadn’t made it onto my to do list until I got wind of its Monday night set menu special. Three courses and a glass of wine for £24.50 is worth the weekday bus journey even in lesser establishments, and this one is Telegraph columnist Stevie Parle’s riverside flagship. The supper clubs which helped make Stevie’s name have inspired the restaurant to run a different themed menu every three weeks, and it was the Korean version which sucked us in.
The food was sometimes good, but mostly excellent. Beef tartare with its accompanying pear barely tasted of anything, but the little fried rice cakes which looked like the cotton wool that gets tucked behind your molars on a bad trip to the dentist were a most curiously pleasant, sticky, soft texture inside and drenched in a fantastic homemade sriracha chilli sauce. And of the main course it was the deeply savoury, tender slices of rare grilled onglet which I’d go back for, though the plump pork belly and three types of kimchi also went down very easily.
Service was kind if a little nervous, and the restaurant brightened to match its decor as other tables started tucking in and marvelling at the tiny, tiny crispy fried anchovies. They’re a good example of why I enjoy the odd set menu. It’s fun to trust the chef and see which squiggly things you’d never have ordered they throw at you, and with this one you’re in very safe hands for a very safe price.
344/342 Ladbroke Grove, Kensal Road, W10 5BU, 020 8962 1610020 8962 1610