Kentish Canteen, Kentish Town

Burger, Kentish Canteen, London When this place opened, it was all perky and bursting with simple dishes made well, like crispy parmesan chicken escalopes and a lovely Ottolenghi-style salad counter. But, like that teenage crush who never amounted to anything, it is much less desirable a few years down the line. A redesign has replaced bright and chirpy with moody dark reds. The salads are gone, the menu is now half burgers and half adventurous mains that don’t meet expectations. Remembering a succulent, homemade patty from last time I went for the former, but the meat was overcooked and its accompanying chips had grainy middles.

Between various menu deals and 50% off vouchers, you can eat at very little expense in this place, and from personal experience I can tell you that service is friendly and only a little slow even when you’re the most annoying table in the restaurant. Kentish Town isn’t the taste wasteland it was when the Canteen opened, though, and there are better spots to fall for these days. No need to settle.

Kentish Canteen
★★✰✰✰   £££
300 Kentish Town Road, NW5 2TG, 020 7485 7331

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