Venison saddle & roasted apple with red eye gravy (£26)
Though far from waning, that trend for American food seems to be taking a classier route these days, and The Lockhart’s new menu is tempting proof that there’s more to eat in the States than burgers and ribs. It’s a brief list of options, all of which we wanted and most of which was excellent. The mains were far superior to the starters; turnips and ham is no more exciting than it sounds, and the dirty rice had stealth liver stirred right through, which is not the sort of ingredient you should surprise people with. The corn bread was superior to everything, but how could freshly baked, light, cakey bread drenched in butter and honey not be superior to everything?
Shrimp & grits (£18)
My shrimp and grits made me understand how soul food can be a hug in a bowl. The richly cheesy corn porridge was firm enough to pack in plenty of bacon, spring onions and plump pink prawns but light enough not to overpower them. Nothing not to love. I loved the restaurant too, and the laid-back staff, though they were concentrating harder on upselling us and cracking jokes than on making sure we had everything we needed. But we were having fun, and went with it, and you would do well to do the same, as long as you order plenty of that corn bread.
22-24 Seymour Pl, W1H 7NL, 020 3011 5400