Given that it’s an area famed for its food market and already studded with really excellent places to eat, Borough is quite a brave place to open a restaurant, especially in a room above a pub at the quiet end of the High Street. Edwins opened for soft launch at the beginning of March and are serving an encouragingly short menu of modern British dishes, as well as brunches and roasts at the appropriate times of the weekend.
We managed to visit on a day when it was possible to leave the house without a coat on, so it would have been a travesty to order a roast, but lighter options were a bit lacking so I ordered all the starters (‘small plates’) instead. Rabbit goes better with polenta and parmesan than I had anticipated, and this was some of the best polenta I’ve had, with a crisped top and smooth, creamy middle. Sadly the generous portion of rabbit was quite dry and its sticky sauce wasn’t exciting enough to make up for it, though I think with a few tweaks from the chef this could work beautifully.
Beetroot and goat’s curd salad was lovely, although the surprise tomato contingent let the side down a little; they could have done with being as ripe as they were colourful. But the dish I’d definitely go back for (and maybe order two portions of) was the plate of crispy little filo packages of juicy, perfectly cooked scallops. They had a gentle layer of spring onions to keep the flavours perky, and the harissa mayonnaise was a feisty delight. Like the very best and most lavish spring rolls you could lay your fingers on.
With a lovely sunny room, great staff and some interesting ideas on the food side of things Edwins is definitely worth a try once they’ve had a little chance to iron out the kinks in the kitchen. Food service was quite slow considering we were one of a few tables, but this will no doubt pick up, and they have an excellent playlist going on so you could fill your time on Shazam if conversation dries up. There’s just one thing that will always put me off, though: why no apostrophe?
I visited Edwins during their soft launch, so take what I’ve said with a pinch of salt
Upstairs 202–206, Borough High Street, SE1 1JX, 0207 403 9913