If we had missed the fact that Boisdale is Scottish before we’d got there, it would have been made clear by the wall-to-wall-to-stairs-to-bathroom tartan carpet. But the Scottish chap in the dinner party had already gleefully told us he’d be having the haggis, so luckily it wasn’t a shock. This is the least trendy restaurant I’ve been to in London, I think. They have a jazz pianist, for god’s sake. But the food was pretty good, and cheap for the quality thanks to a Toptable set menu deal. Following a chunky but tasty terrine I waited a good five minutes longer than the rest of the table for my main course of kedgeree that wasn’t really kedgeree, but beautifully fresh smoked cod next to a perfectly poached duck egg on top of rice and peas. It was pleasant, but underseasoned and had only the ghost of curry flavours past. The whole restaurant was fairly out-of-date, to be honest, but at least the jazz pianist turned out to be rather good.
Boisdale of Bishopsgate
Swedeland Court, 202 Bishopsgate, EC2M 4NR, 020 7283 1763