Boisdale of Bishopsgate, Liverpool Street

Kedgeree, Boisdale Bishopsgate, London If we had missed the fact that Boisdale is Scottish before we’d got there, it would have been made clear by the wall-to-wall-to-stairs-to-bathroom tartan carpet. But the Scottish chap in the dinner party had already gleefully told us he’d be having the haggis, so luckily it wasn’t a shock. This is the least trendy restaurant I’ve been to in London, I think. They have a jazz pianist, for god’s sake. But the food was pretty good, and cheap for the quality thanks to a Toptable set menu deal. Following a chunky but tasty terrine I waited a good five minutes longer than the rest of the table for my main course of kedgeree that wasn’t really kedgeree, but beautifully fresh smoked cod next to a perfectly poached duck egg on top of rice and peas. It was pleasant, but underseasoned and had only the ghost of curry flavours past. The whole restaurant was fairly out-of-date, to be honest, but at least the jazz pianist turned out to be rather good.

Boisdale of Bishopsgate
★★★✰✰   £££
Swedeland Court, 202 Bishopsgate, EC2M 4NR, 020 7283 1763


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