The Attendant, Fitzrovia

The Attendant, coffee shop, Fitzrovia, London There’s a lot to be said for having a gimmick in this town, because doing something well and letting success simply come to you can work, but it will take the patience of a primary school teacher and the balls of a banker. So the owners of The Attendant (which presumably wasn’t yet named that) must have washed their hands with glee when they realised they could open the friendly coffee shop they had planned in a beautiful old public toilet. That’s a whole lot of ready made press right there. And it’s worth a visit just to see the place; they’ve done a lovely job of using likely antique features (hand-dryers, urinals) to make the interior interesting while managing to let you forget that these are the walls that have seen a thousand wees.

Beef chilli from The Attendant, cafe in Fitzrovia, London

Beef chilli (£6)

Their wares are less beautifully executed; our coffees looked pretty but one was a bit burnt, as was my ham and three cheese toastie on brioche, though the non-burnt parts were also absolutely delicious. The beef chilli was satisfying but not exciting, and the salt beef sandwich tasty but too small. But I’ll probably go back anyway if they promise to change the playlist from the series of slow jamz we had to endure. I can’t think of anyone who would appreciate both a good flat white and hearing Chamillionaire’s ‘Ridin’ Dirty’ while they drink it.

The Attendant
★★★✰✰   £££
27a Foley Street, W1W 6DY, 0207 637 37 94

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