The Bell & Brisket at The Duke’s Head, Highgate

Bell & Brisket at The Duke's Head, Highgate

The Viscount Kimchi (left) and The Kount von Kraut (£7 each)

A new craft beer pub with a salt beef specialist food residency? We were up Highgate Hill the first chance we got. And the climb was totally worth it, because these are very fine sandwiches. The soft rye buns were a good sturdy surround for such an impressive pile of filling. A wedge of fine-sliced, gently salty beef was draped in a generous layer of melted cheese and sat on a throne of the pickle variety of your choice. The chips were also just right; hot, crisp and light in the middle without verging on floury.

Given my order again I’d pick the kimchi version for sure; it was far more interesting than ‘The Kount von Kraut’, whose dill and garlic kraut was distinctly garlic-less, and whose mustard was so hot it made my skin tingle in a do-I-need-medical-attention sort of way. I’d also have liked the cheddar that tops both to be more mature; it gets a bit lost next to all the other excitement as it is. But if you can handle mustard injuries, you can do far worse than these champion sarnies.

The Bell & Brisket at The Duke’s Head
★★★★✰   £££
16 Highgate High Street, N6 5JG, 020 8341 1310

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