Kimchinary at Catch Bar, Shoreditch

Cavolo nero tacos at Kimchinary, Catch Bar, Shoredith

Cavolo nero tacos (£6) and nachos (£4.50) in the background

Kimchinary’s Korean burritos are probably the tastiest wrap a person can devour, so expectations for their residency at Catch Bar were pretty darn high. Some of said expectations were met with a bear hug: the box of nachos with bulgogi beef, sriracha-gochu hot sauce and grilled spring onion sour cream, among other things, were a taste sensation, with the toppings all gathering to have the ultimate flavour fiesta on the crisp tortilla triangles. The Kimchinary sign made of fairylights that sits by the kitchen hatch was also excellent.

The tacos were a bit weaker, unfortunately. The cornbreads themselves were terribly underseasoned, lending them a slightly stale flavour, and the cornflake chicken thigh topping was also in need of a good pinch of salt, and didn’t really taste of anything in particular. Braised cavolo nero was miles better, though, the creamy queso fresco really enchancing the soy and kimchi that laced the veg. I could have eaten twice the portion, and probably would have preferred to. £6 for two of these little guys is perhaps pushing it, but as I’d just order two portions of nachos next time, maybe it doesn’t matter. And actually, the bar’s service was so variable that I might just head back to the Kimchinary stall instead.

Kimchinary at Catch
★★★✰✰   £££
22 Kingsland Road, E2 8DA, 020 7729 6097

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