It’s hard to be pleased that I don’t consider nearly £20 for a main course outrageous these days, but it’s actually a good thing. Because the added competition has made the good ones really bloody good, and Green Man and French Horn is doing bloody good just right. Their ‘thing’ is serving food and drink from the Loire, and while I still couldn’t explain to you what those specialities include, the excellent waiting staff gave educating us a good go, patient even down to endless drunken appreciation of the cheeseboard.
This is the sort of food that you imagine stumbling across in provincial hostelries near that French country pile that your parents always dreamed of buying to renovate if they ever managed to pay off the mortgage. The dishes are made from strong combinations of just a few excellent flavours, so that whatever the main selling point is can steal its own show. A gently gamey rabbit leg was sticky with delicious gravy and supported by pappardelle so fresh you hardly noticed it. And a fragrant poached pear came filled with just a touch of fluffy chantilly and perched in a pool of caramel sauce that somehow was as light as it was rich. A meal of this sort costs enough that it should be considered a treat, and fortunately here you’re guaranteed that it will be.
Green Man and French Horn
54 St Martins Lane, WC2N 4EA, 0207 836 2645