There’s just nothing not to like about Market, except maybe the name, which is a bit silly considering the restaurant is in an area of London only famous for a market (and Amy Winehouse). But it has more than enough charm to make up for that, and it’s not even that bad, I just had to find something to criticise.
The menu is one of those that changes all the time, which means no deciding what you’ll order days ahead of your visit, but plenty of pleasant surprises. Surprises that are always what you’re in the mood for, too, thanks to its seasonal slant. I shared brown crab on toast (£7) to start in an effort to leave room for dessert, and actually it was so rich with cream and salty crab meat that half was just right. Not that I wouldn’t have scoffed the whole thing given the chance.
Our main courses were absolutely excellent. Piled with just the right number of ingredients to make sure that the headline acts – a juicy, tender slab of venison and light, fresh fillet of sea bream – tasted even more delicious than you’d expect them to. They were both dishes that seemed to have been constructed not to impress, or get people talking, but to taste the very best they could, which is my favourite kind of cooking, and something the rise of ‘modern British’ has helped to encourage.
The pudding I’d saved myself before was our least satisfying course, but only because we hadn’t guessed right; buttermilk pudding turned out to be a tangy and thickly smooth pannacotta rather than something warm and stodgy and baked. No matter. Market had already won us over already. Its Twitter feed frequently features pictures of a regular’s dog, for goodness’ sake, how can it not be loveable?
43 Parkway, NW1 7PN, 0207 2679700