Taro, Soho

Bento box, Taro, Soho

Salmon teriyaki bento B (£9.90)

We’re so lucky in London to be able to pick and choose restaurants within cuisines so niche their country of origin would be a Pointless answer. We’re all pretty familiar with Japanese by now, but good examples of it that can still count as a cheap dinner are still a pleasant surprise. Taro’s school canteen-style basement offers very affordable bento boxes, sushi selections, rice and noodle dishes and some more exciting options I’ve yet to experiment with. It’s by no means a food adventure; they’re not experimenting with trends and flavours, or even targeting new custom. Or even trying to charm the custom they have, to be honest. But these are classic dishes made well, priced reasonably and served quickly, and reliability counts for a lot on my watch. I’m not good with change.

★★★★✰   £££
1o Old Compton Street, W1, 020 7439 2275


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