My first pilgrimage for Pizza Pilgrims’ freshly baked, full-flavoured pizza was fruitless. I filled my whole lunchbreak with a walk from the Strand to Berwick Street, but by the time I got there all their pizza was eaten. But the Eliot brothers charmed us even without their signature food, so I was soon back, and soon hooked on their crisp, fresh bases, full-flavoured tomato sauce and creamy, savoury mozzarella. So when they found a home with a permanent roof on Dean Street, I had a horrible feeling it might end up being my Central Perk. Horrible because pizza is a lot more fattening than coffee.
And the pizza is good. Still rich and delicious, dotted with the finest toppings, cheap, and the size that fills you while allowing for pudding (or wine [or both]). But not quite as good as it had been from their van. The margherita’s base had lost its crisp edges and was limp in the middle, and the calzone was stuffed with too much grainy ricotta and not enough good stuff. Our waiter had too much going on to either giggle with us about the couple necking on the next table or take orders without us flagging him down. A litre of wine for £24 seemed a bargain on the menu, then we did the maths and realised it was more than our local charges by the glass. At Pizza Pilgrims you will find a quick, good, cheap meal, but that’s not a USP in Soho. I think they might have their fingers in too many pizza pies.
11 Dean Street, 0207 287 8964