Elliot’s, London Bridge

Scallops from Elliot's, Borough Market, London Bridge

Scallops and saffron butter (£10)

It’s worth visiting Elliot’s just for the calm it maintains despite living on the edge of London’s most horrendously busy food market. Fortunately it also serves excellent, imaginative food, so you’ll leave relaxed and satisfied. On both of my visits the mussels have stolen the show, and, with the addition of plenty of bread to mop up their sauce (which is more flavoursome than some soups), make an excellent lunch. Some of the small plates are too small; the scallops were beautifully fresh and lightly flavoured with saffron, so only having three made me sad. On the plus side, their shells were useful as scoops for the mussel soup.

The staff are busy, but they get the job done. Flagging them down feels a bit like asking your mum where something is while she’s at the gravy-making stage of a roast dinner. They’re happy to help, but you are interrupting. The place in general is quite homely, actually; comforting but not overbearing. Makes sense that they serve really, really good potatoes. There’s nothing more homely than spuds.

Elliot’s
★★★★✰   £££
12 Stoney St, SE1 9AD, 0207 4037436

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