As street food goes, pizza never really stormed London in the way that burgers became as about as avoidable as Starbucks, which is probably partly because it is very hard to eat good pizza while walking. The middle of the slice droops, the cheese slides into peril and before you know it the tomato sauce is on your face, t-shirt and shoe. But Homeslice were so good they made it: they were the first thing I bought at KERB (back when it was Eat St.) and I bloody loved their crisp base, rich sauce and topping combinations so middle class that you couldn’t even buy the ingredients in Waitrose.
A year-odd down the line and they’ve set up shop in Neal’s Yard, and the addition of tables means being able to order pizzas big enough to stuff two hungry men. The two hungry men don’t even need to squabble over toppings, as they’ll do half and half. The finnochiona (fennel seed salami) was excellent; crisp and salty and flavoursome without distracting from the creamy mozzarella. Spring onion, bone marrow and watercress was a lot less exciting than it sounds; the bone marrow made everything taste richer, but got very lost among the punchy greens. Still very tasty though. My only complaint is the wine system: they serve it by the glass or by the magnum, which you top up from and then pay for what you’ve drunk. The only reason I can imagine for this is that it means customers are likely to drink more than the bottle they would have ordered if they could, and the wine’s not even cheap, so that’s a bit cruel, in my opinion. But maybe I should learn to have just one glass…
13 Neal’s Yard, WC2H 9DP, 0207 836 4604