Honey & Co., Warren Street

Honey and Co peach and honey cheesecake

Because I enjoy trying (and judging) new venues, it takes something really special for me to return to a place. So when I tell you that I have been back to Honey & Co. twice since I first visited in September, what I really mean is book yourself a table immediately. They serve middle-eastern dishes with the sort of finesse that you don’t expect from middle-eastern restaurants (no offence intended; finesse is often overrated), so it will come as no surprise that the lady half of  the husband and wife team behind this little charmer has been a chef at Ottolenghi, middle-eastern marvel of the middle classes.
It doesn’t matter where they used to cook, though, what you need to know is that they’re now serving an exceptionally flavoursome, regularly updated menu from a very small, friendly venue at the top of Fitzrovia. Main courses are reasonably priced (more than £10 but less than £15, usually) and perfectly portioned, and every one I’ve tried has made me wonder how they managed to make such simple ingredients into a dish so packed with taste. Extra kudos goes out to them for serving meat houmous as a main. There aren’t many ways to make houmous better, but piling lamb on it is a truly valiant attempt.

Dessert, and the cheesecake (pictured) in particular, is probably better than any dessert you’ve had in the last three months. I am aware that includes Christmas and therefore you have to include your Mum’s cooking in the scale, but I bet I’m right. This cheesecake, a pile of crisp pastry strands topped with rich, sweet, goat’s cheese-laced whipped dairy, juicy fresh fruit and a drizzle of Regents Park honey, is incredible. If you can’t go for dinner, go for afternoon tea (I hear the cakes are also excellent) and if you can afford it, go for both.

Honey & Co.
★★★★★   £££
25a Warren Street, W1T 5LZ, 020 7388 6175

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